Lauding local at The Black Bear Inn
Along a winding lane in the Welsh countryside, it’s impossible not to admire the charming Victorian facade of The Black Bear Inn, which shouts ‘traditional boozer loved by locals’. What it whispers, though, is that through its doors lies one of South Wales’ most impressive culinary offerings.
Refurbished back in 2018 by husband-and-wife owners, Hannah and Joshua, the duo has created a cosy and homely space that remains true to the building’s history. It doesn’t take very long to feel at ease at your table in such a setting. Large chalkboards stand out across a few of the walls, proudly presenting the week’s menu. With only a select number of options for each course, it’s clear that every dish has been carefully considered. From the produce of Talgarth Mill to Moor Park garden vegetables, the focus here is on celebrating local ingredients.
Starting with a selection of snacks, whipped cod’s roe and crispy fried potato skins were a perfect pair, next to rich oxtail croquettes and, of course, some tangy Welsh rarebit. Torn between two mains, I was ultimately swayed by the pollock with mash, brown shrimp, braised lettuce and tarragon. The fish was smooth and delicate in flavour, the mash earned full marks for its smooth and velvety texture. Lightly doused in a buttery brown shrimp sauce, the dish was the very definition of comforting.
Dessert was a no brainer – a white chocolate mousse had my name written all over it. Resting on a tart strawberry coulis, which evened the creaminess of the mousse, and topped with a sprinkling of candied walnuts to bring a satisfying crunch, it was perfect.
After such an impressive meal, I wanted to find out a bit more about the restaurant. Here, co-owner and head chef, Joshua shares more of an insight into his restaurant and its concept…
Where did the idea behind The Black Bear Inn come from?
“We shaped the offering and style of The Black Bear around the building and its surroundings. We change the menu each week based on what ingredients our local suppliers tell us are at their best. Our wine and drinks, whilst not all local suppliers, obviously are from small artisan producers who know intimately and care deeply for their product. Lastly, the interior is meant to show off the best features of the beautiful old building we have, all served within a relaxed atmosphere.”
Since opening back in 2018, what has been your biggest highlight as a team?
“There have been lots of highlights really. But it’s hard to choose between featuring in the Top 50 Gastropubs list and getting reviewed by Marina O'Loughlin for The Sunday Times.”
Where do you go for inspiration when putting together your menu?
“We try to keep everything as British as possible, albeit not necessarily sticking to specific classic dishes. We take inspiration directly from our suppliers – they let us know what is best each week and we find a way to use it.”
So, if you happen to find yourself exploring the beautiful countryside of South Wales, do yourself a favour and book a table here. (And if that white chocolate mousse happens to be on the menu, do yourself another favour and order it.)
