Jolene, Jolene

Bakery every day, restaurant most days, I’d opted for dinner at East London’s much-loved Jolene on one of those latter days. As soon as I approached the restaurant, I was hit by its neighbourhood-casual charm. Walking inside, I was hit by a heap more of that charm, as well as the industrial elegance of Jolene’s interiors. Exposed concrete and brick walls were adorned with little else bar a chalkboard with the day’s menu. Candlelight flickered on each table as the sun’s golden hour glow flickered through the trees of Newington Green. The breeze drifted by along with the jovial chatter of fellow diners. It was all very lovely… and as for the food, I’m pleased to report that was all very lovely too.

After hearing our waitress’ top recommendations from the menu, we decided on the order of events. There was, of course, no better trio to start a balmy summer’s evening supper than a plate of tomatoes, mozzarella and fresh basil pesto. There was nothing better than some crispy and light panisse with fried sage leaves and plenty of parmesan to go along with it.

Perfectly al dente orecchiette came with broccoli, anchovy, chili and garlic. Just the right amount of all ingredients – from the saltiness of the anchovy to the kick of the chili. Then, a rich ricotta and pea raviolo, with an egg yolk waiting to be released from the middle. This pasta was softer and more velvety than the orecchiette, lending itself to the indulgence of the overall dish.

Last but very definitely not least was a resplendently red mullet served with liquor-poached peaches, tomatoes and herbs. A most attractive dish owing to the colour of the mullet together with the glossiness of the poached peaches.

I left Jolene feeling full, not just of very good food but of the warmth you only get from certain restaurants. My only wish is that’d I’d saved room for dessert…