Creative meets classic at Comparte Bistró

Wander along Chueca’s Calle de Belen and you’ll find Comparte Bistró amongst the street’s busy bars and brightly-lit corner shops. A floor-length glass facade flirts with passers by, offering a sneak peek inside the restaurant. Its simple and stripped back interiors allow the open kitchen to sit centre stage.

Led by Mario Sánchez Ariza (formerly of DiverXO and Aponiente) and Charlotte Finkel (ex Four Seasons), Comparte takes Andalusian flavours and applies French techniques across its creative but classic menu. Concise and designed for sharing, there were a couple of smaller ‘classics’ to start followed by larger sharing plates. Unable to decide for ourselves, we sought the insight of our waiters to guide us through the top dishes to order…

First up, puchero croquetas which were swiftly devoured – it was our first night so we were yet to readjust to the later eating routine of the madrileños. Alongside those came cured meat with fried almonds. A salty meets crunchy match made in heaven… which somehow reminded me of a crisp sandwich.

Then came the fish of the day with beurre blanc sauce and cured pancetta. This was probably the most unremarkable dish, which says more about how much I enjoyed the rest as this was, itself, delicious.

Next to arrive from the kitchen was tuna with a bordelaise sauce which was ambitious in both flavour combinations as well as the style of cooking the fish. Through this, though, Comparte’s kitchen proved its mastery.

The duck meatballs, wrapped in cured duck breast with chimichurri, were by far my favourite dish. Beautifully presented with rich colours and distinct textures. The duck was tremendous – packed with flavour – and the sauce complemented it perfectly, cutting through with its fresh kick.

Albeit full, I couldn’t leave without dessert. So, to mark the end of an excellent meal, came a chocolate and olive oil concoction with two spoons. Reluctantly I shared, but secretly wished I’d ordered my own…