Racines and its warm embrace

Nestled in the quintessentially Parisian Passage des Panoramas and touting a nostalgic facade, the charm of Racines is an instant hit. Taken over in 2018 by the Sardinian chef, Simone Tondo, the restaurant is a love letter to Italy’s osterias, bringing the best seasonal produce to a menu rooted in the comforts of Italian classics.

The interiors were tightly-packed and typical of the city’s hip bistros. Candlelights flickered, characterful artworks adorned the walls and dark wooden furniture brought a classic elegance to the space. From our table, I watched the chefs poking around a fairly compact kitchen to produce an array of dishes that all looked equally tempting.

To start, I tucked into an indulgent ball of burratina that was beautifully presented beneath a vibrant salsa verde and velvety roasted red peppers. My tastebuds momentarily transported me to summer’s day in Italy. Not too long after my quick trip overseas, tagliolini with a tomatoey beef ragout arrived in front of me. With rich aromas dancing up from my plate, I knew I was in for a good thing. The dish was the very essence of comforting. After a long day of exploring the city (and a hefty step count to show for it), it was exactly what I needed.

When it came to dessert, plate after plate of one particular sweet treat had passed me by far too many times to consider ordering anything else. It had to be the tiramisu. We ordered one portion to share, which came across two plates. There was such a healthy serving on each, I had to double-check they’d noted our request of just the one. It seemed they had. Not that I was complaining… especially after the first spoonful of a tiramisu that was lighter than air. Verdict? For an intimate dinner in a bistro reeking of charm, Racines is the place to go.