A gourmand’s guide to Lyon
The culinary capital of France, Lyon is a playground for gourmands. Lining its streets, traditional bouchons serve up salades Lyonnaise, quenelles and tartes aux pralines, while the influence of Paul Bocuse can be felt citywide. But it’s not all food… Famed for the silk industry that drove its wealth, as well as one of the original homes of cinema, the city’s captivating history sits side by side with the Lyon of today – made up of street art, contemporary designers and new wave bistros. It’s a fabulous choice for a city break, so here’s a gourmand’s guide to Lyon to help you plan one.
Where to stay
Hôtel de l’Abbaye
The boutique Hôtel de l’Abbaye is a chic little spot to call home during your stay in Lyon. Nestled within a quiet square just across from the Basilica of Saint Martin d’Ainay, there’s a relaxed neighbourhood feel to its location. The twenty-one rooms are all beautifully designed to blend the building’s history together with sleek modern touches, as are the communal spaces downstairs. Enjoy a pre-dinner G&T in the lounge before heading out for the evening, or there’s a brilliant restaurant within the hotel itself called L’Artichaut if you feel like dining somewhere closer to home.
Rooms from £139 per night
20 Rue de l'Abbaye d'Ainay, 69002
Villa Maïa
For a luxury stay in Lyon, look no further than Villa Maïa. Sitting pretty at the top of Fourvière hill, it’s a striking space both inside and out, designed by Jean-Michel Wilmotte with interiors from Jacques Grange and a garden landscaped by Louis Benech. There’s a fabulous spa and pool within the hotel, as well as a choice of three restaurants and plenty of areas to enjoy a crafted cocktail.
Rooms from £332 per night
8 Rue Pierre Marion, 69005
Villa Florentine
Another 5* hotel in the Fourvière neighbourhood, Villa Florentine – housed within a former convent – is all peace, quiet and style. Whether you’re enjoying the panoramic views from the pool, the frescoed lobby or your marble-decked bathroom, you’ll feel transported to a world of timeless luxury. With a Michelin star to its name, the hotel’s restaurant, Les Terrasses de Lyon (undergoing refurbishments but reopening 9th April, 2024) is well worth a visit too.
Rooms from £194 per night
25 Mont Saint-Barthélémy, 69005
Where to eat
Monsieur P
One of Lyon’s best restaurants for fine-dining with flair, delight in lunch or dinner at Monsieur P with Florent Poulard at the helm. Having trained at the Paul Bocuse Institute, as well as under Alain Passard, French techniques are perfectly executed throughout the menu and vegetables are a focal point. I opted for the dinnertime ‘Inspiration’ tasting menu during my visit – the chicken ravioli with foie gras and hyssop is a dish I’ll never forget.
8 Place des Célestins, 69002
Café Terroir
Put simply, Café Terroir is everything a restaurant should be: a smart yet relaxed setting, excellent service and unfussy, delicious food. You really can’t go wrong with the menu, but my recommendation would be to start with some Les Mont du Lyonnais snails – devouring their garlicy, buttery goodness – before moving onto the mouthwatering savoury tarte tatin of shallots and whipped horseradish cream. There’s a great selection of mains, but if you want to try one of their signatures opt for a rotisserie meat to share. Of all the great meals I had during my trip to Lyon, this was my favourite.
14 Rue d'Amboise, 69002
Sapnà
Of course, dining in Lyon isn’t all bouchons and classic French cuisine – there’s an amazing international food scene to explore too. A small spot serving up Asian street food, Sapnà is always bustling with its stylish crowd. The dim sum menu is intended for sharing, featuring dishes like shiitake mushroom gyozas with okonomyaki sauce. Make sure to save room for dessert – head pastry chef, Rémy Havet (formerly of London’s Dorchester Hotel) is renowned for his incredibly creative and original combinations.
7 Rue de la Martinière, 69001
Where to drink
Micro Sillon
The popular wine bar, Micro Sillon is a neighbourhood go-to thanks to its diverse wine list and excellent menu of small plates. Inside, exposed stone walls, sleek white tiles and red leather bar stools tell a story of minimalism, while the shelves lined with bottles showcase the team’s expertise in bringing dynamic wines to the fore. When the weather’s kind, opt for a seat at one of the outdoor tables and while away a few hours beneath the sunshine. There’s nothing better.
6 Place Fernand Rey, 69001
Abstract
The brainchild of Remy Savage (the man behind London’s acclaimed A Bar With Shapes For a Name), take a seat at Abstract’s bar to try some of Lyon’s most inventive cocktails. Using only spirits made in-house within Abstract’s adjacent distillery, the cocktails here really will be unlike anything you’ve tried before. In terms of setting, it’s an incredibly cool space – with its retro American diner feel and feature U-shaped bar – that gathers an equally cool crowd. There’s also a food menu that’s sure to tempt, with options like the signature lobster roll or a smoked eel croque monsieur.
2 Rue Duroc, 69001
Magma Coffee Shop
For your caffeine fix while exploring the city, Magma is on hand to help. Head through its arch-shaped entrance and into a haven of flat whites and chai lattes. Pick up a freshly-baked pastry from the counter, or opt for something from the menu –for breakfast, there’s a ham and comté brioche bun or come lunchtime, try the roasted cauliflower with capers and homemade dukka.
101 Rue Bechevelin, 69007
Where to shop
Marché Alimentaire Saint-Antoine Celestins
Make like a local and head out early to wander through Marché Alimentaire Saint-Antoine Celestins. It’s a charming food market stretching along the banks of the river, with the old town as its picturesque backdrop. Stall after stall of fruit and veg create a rainbow of colour, while the warming scent of of rotisserie chicken one minute and freshly-baked baguette the next will have you drooling.
32 Quai Saint-Antoine, 69002
Fromagerie Tête d’Or
A family-run cheese shop going strong for no less than eight generations, Fromagerie Tête d’Or has been supplying locals with the finest of fromage since 1880. For something typically Lyonnais, opt for some Saint Marcellin, or put your trust in the hands of the expert cheesemongers themselves and ask to try a selection of their favourites.
51 Rue Tête d'Or, 69006
Les Puces du Canal
Dedicate a day (or at least a good few hours) to exploring this enormous brocante located in Villeurbanne – an activity that should be included in every guide to Lyon. With two hundred permanent stores and space for up to a further four hundred sellers, Les Puces du Canal is the second largest flea market in all of France where visitors can find everything from art deco armchairs to rare second-hand books. Antique enthusiasts will go wild, as will anyone who loves a good bargain.
5 Rue Eugène Pottier, 69100
What to do
Head up to the Fourvière hilltop
Embark on the climb up to the summit of Lyon’s Fourvière hilltop to burn off some of that hearty Lyonnais food and earn some more of it. Once you’ve made it to the top, take in the sweeping views of the city beneath and beyond. Next, step into the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière and admire its ornate design before heading to the historic Théâtre Gallo Romain. (And if you don’t fancy the physical exertion of the walk but do like the sound of those panoramic views, hop on the funicular instead.)
Go contemporary via La Confluence
For Lyon’s most impressive feat of contemporary architecture, make your way to the striking Musée des Confluences and its surrounding district. Following a huge urban renewal project, the area now dubbed La Confluence – formerly filled with unused warehouses – is now at the forefront of the city’s modern architecture and design. Pay a visit to the science museum itself, make your way to HEAT for a rotating selection of international street food and wander over to the viewpoint at the district’s very edge, looking out at where the Rhône and Saône rivers meet.
Picnic in Parc de la Tête d’Or
Pack a picnic of goods from your visits to Marché Saint-Antoine and Fromagerie Tête d’Or and spend the afternoon unwinding in Parc de la Tête d’Or. Modelled on the style of an English garden, the majestic expanse is the country’s biggest urban park. Its botanical gardens are a riot of colour come spring, while there’s also a boating lake and even a zoo to keep the whole family entertained.
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