Three cheers for Chishuru
I’d been desperate to try Chishuru – the modern West African restaurant with Adejoké Bakare at the helm – for far too long. After all, Bakare is one of London’s much-loved figures within hospitality and all who speak of her food, rave about it. The restaurant has been on quite the journey over the past few years. It originally opened its doors as a three month pop-up in Brixton after Bakare won a local competition back in 2020. Following flawless reviews from renowned critics and local diners alike, it became a permanent fixture within the neighbourhood for the best part of two years. Chishuru then made its way across London with residencies at spaces like Carousel and 180 Corner, before settling into its new Fitzrovia home towards the end of 2023.
The very definition of Chishuru in Hausa is ‘to eat silently’ – a reference to the abandon of conversation caused by food so good it commands total attention. As it happens, I was lunching solo… but even if I’d been in company, I knew this would’ve been the case from the moment I started eating.
Offering a set menu for both lunch and dinner – at £40 and £75 respectively – the team takes care of most decisions for its diners. I trusted I was in the best of hands. To start my lunch, came Sinasir. A fermented rice cake with cep & shiitake mushrooms, crushed walnuts and grains of paradise – an aromatic spice that looks like peppercorn but boasts flavours of cardamom and citrus. With a distinct richness, this was fabulous in both taste and texture. To its side, was glistening Ekoki – a corn cake topped with coconut cream, a drizzle of date & tamarind sauce and candied chilli. Each bite showcased Bakare’s perfect command of heat, which was always present but never overpowering.
Moving onto my main dish, I opted for the Yassa. This was a perfectly charcoal-grilled guinea fowl breast with a caramelised onion & lemon sauce and yaji peanut spice. Generous helpings of rice, fried plantain and house pickles were served alongside it. A mouthwatering rollercoaster that got better with every bite, I could’ve licked the plate clean. Last but not least was the Fonio & Carob dessert. One dollop of nutty fonio ice cream and another of toasty, chocolatey carob custard, with coconut crisp placed atop and peanut praline hiding beneath. It was a brilliant way to bring lunch to a close.
Walking out of the restaurant, I felt joyful. Flavours danced from spiced to sweet. Textures were used to perfection. There was warmth in abundance. Chishuru was awarded its first Michelin star just a few weeks ago, which has created a whole new level of buzz around the restaurant. Of course, a star is a huge achievement… and so very well deserved. But that Bakare is the first Black woman in Britain – and the second in the world – to be awarded this accolade raises the question of just why it has taken so long. In any case, I’d argue that Adejoké Bakare’s talent shines far greater than any star and I can’t wait to see what the future holds.
